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PSP 1000 Series Housing Replacement Guide

This guide will walk you through in the disassembly of your PSP 1000 series.  I did try my best to make everything as clear as possible and have ran it though myself to make sure I didnít miss any steps.  If you have steady hands and are good at working with small parts, this will be a fun and enjoyable project.  It should take you between 30 minutes to 3 hours to complete this guide.  The important thing here is to have fun and enjoy the new housing!  DO NOT RUSH IT!  Always take your time!  I suggest you read through this guide before you begin and if at any point you feel you are not able to proceed, seek a professional.

Before we begin, a little disclaimer:

Please note that doing this will void the warranty of your PSP system. You should be pretty good at working with small, delicate parts and have steady hands. DO NOT use excessive force.  Attempt at your own risk!  I will not be held responsible in any way, shape, or form for anything that happens to your PSP while you attempt to change the housing with this guide.

IMPORTANT POINTS TO FOLLOW:

  • It is a lot easier if you pre-thread the screw holes in the new housing before putting everything back.
     

  • Supercharge your free screwdriver! Guide here.
     

  • Try to use the original parts and screws as much as possible and pre-thread each hole before the actual install. Remember, when pre-threading, the screws do not have to go all the way in. Turn them until they are about 3/4 of the way in and you're fine.
     

  • If your screwdriver is slipping when trying to remove the screws, it means your
    screws may have "bonded" with the plastic. This usually happens with older systems which the plastic has stretch and shrink with varying temperatures. If this is happening, try tapping on the screwdriver lightly to loosen it. If that still doesn't work, some customers have used a drop of olive oil to loosen the screws.
     

  • Although  a #00 Phillips screwdriver is provided with our kits, it may be best if you use your own if you have one. Some systems may require a T2 Torx as well. If you don't have one, you can buy one here.
     

  • Follow the instructions in Blue to disassemble.
     

  • REMEMBER THE SCREW PLACEMENTS! What I do is place them on the table the same shape as where the screw goes.
     

  • Follow the instructions in GREEN for reassembly.

Things you must have:

1 x pointy tweezers

1 x #00 Phillips screwdriver (provided) (Use your own if you have it)

1 x Something flat and thin like a small flat head screwdriver

Things thatíll make your work a lot easier:

1 x needle nose pliers

A clean, wide, brightly lid area to work

Grounding yourself before you begin:
Just touch the back of your computer case where there are metal parts, the power supply is best. This is connected to the ground terminal of your wall outlet. This should release any static electricity in your body.

Let's get started:



Start on the back side. Remove battery, UMD disc, and memory if present. Remove all 7 screws circled in red. In the battery compartment, remove the sticker. Try your best not to damage it so you can reuse it.

ALWAYS REMEMBER WHICH SCREW GOES WHERE!

Lastly, screw everything down. IMPORTANT: Here's how to properly screw the last 4 outer (black) screws. Hold the PSP in your hand and press the front and back plates together. With the PSP together, install the screws. Don't use the screws to force the plates together. Use your hands to properly fit it together then install the screws to secure it.

You may not need to tighten the screws very tight. Check the L and R buttons and if the don't move or are not loose, then loosen the 2 top outer screws just a bit. Repeat until the buttons are loose. Put the analog cap back and you're done!

IMPORTANT: If the UMD door doesn't close or lock, it means the hook was bent during the transplant. If you look inside the UMD compartment, there's a hook at the top. Slightly bend that hook down (towards the bottom of the PSP) a bit then try closing the door again. Keep bending a very small bit until it locks.  If the door closes but doesn't lock, bend the hook up a bit and try to close the UMD door.

If the UMD door doesn't close all the way, it means it was not installed properly. Click here to go to that section and try again.



Remove the front cover and remove the analog stick cap. Just pull it up and out.

Clean the LCD and remove the plastic protective film on the inside of the faceplate. Place the front cover back in and remember to install the button bar into the face plate. I sometimes find it easier to flip the housing into the faceplate. Remember to clean it well so no dust or fingerprints is inside.



Next, remove the analog stick by unscrewing the 2 screws circled. Just lift it out after. There should be a black washer in between the stick and the cover. It may be stuck on the stick so check there. You can also remove the control pads and buttons as well.










You're almost done! At this point. I like to pre-thread the faceplate's 4 screw holes first to make it easier for install later.

Then, install the analog stick into the front faceplate. Remember to put the black washer in first, then the analog stick and screw it down. Place the buttons and D-Pad into the face plate and then place the rubber pieces back into position.



Now, look at where the arrow is at. Use your small flat head and pry between the metal to release the button bar.



Carefully flip the brown tap up to release the ribbon cable and set aside the button bar.

Insert the front button board's ribbon cable into its socket and lock it down. Then place it back and snap it back into place. Then put the L and R buttons in.



Next, to remove the LCD, insert your small flat head screwdriver in between the metal pieces and carefully pry up the LCD at the lock points in the picture above. Once the right side is release, the left side will slide out. You may need to do some light prying on the left side. CAREFULLY flip the LCD over.



To remove the LCD, flip the black taps up and release the ribbon cable. Set aside the LCD.

Insert the LCD cables back into their sockets and lock them down. I usually do the small cable first, then the large one. Then simply flip the LCD back into place and snap it down.



Now, remove the screws circled and (REMEMBER THEIR PLACEMENTS) open the UMD door to release the locking door mechanism. Lift the metal plate up from the bottom and set it aside.




There's a transparent contact piece attach to the metal frame for the analog stick contact. It should stay put if you don't touch it. But if it did fall out, put it back as seen here. There are 4 faint brown lines going through the middle of the piece and they should be facing up and down. The brown particles transfer the analog sticks movements to the motherboard. Remember, only do this if it fell out. If not, leave it and don't touch it!





Next, install the LCD large metal bracket. Slide the left side in first and MAKE SURE THE D-PADS TABS ARE INSIDE THE BRACKET HOLES! Click here to see what it should look like.

Screw it down as seen in the picture. The 2 left most screws are long screws while the other 3 are very small screws.




Next, remove the button contact board on the right by gently releasing one of the clip circled in red. I find it easier to release the bottom then wiggle the board out of the top clip. Then flip the brown tab up on the big connector to release the cable (long red circle). The "R" button pad is attach to the cable as well. Carefully remove the rubber pad and frame at the same time and set it aside.

Remove the "L" and "R" button and set them aside.

Remove the screw in lower green circle to to release the power connector port and remove the connector at the top green circle. It just pulls out.

Remove the screw in blue circle and flip the D-Pad board over and you'll see the connector for the ribbon cable. Flip up the tab and remove the cable and set aside the D-Pad contact board.

Connect the D-Pad connector boards ribbon cable to the motherboard and Install the D-Pad board like in the picture above and screw it down.

Next, install the button contact board and lock it into the clips. I usually do the top first and snap the lower part in. Then insert the ribbon cable and lock it down.

For the "R" shoulder button, be sure the transparent contact pad is in position first, then place the rubber over the transparent film, then finally the metal bracket with the hook on top.



Lift up the wifi antenna in green circle andflip it over to the left and outside the PSP. The cable will still be attached. Also notice where the cable runs.

The red oval cable is a little different to release. There are 2 small taps on the side of the connector. Move them out to the right to release the cable. Release the small red cable the same as the others.

Carefully pull on the speakers cables to remove the connectors in blur circle.

Next, carefully pry up the right speaker where the blue arrows are. Alternate the arrows to slowly move them out from their sockets. Do the same with the left speaker. Set them aside.

Now, first, place the wifi antanna back into position, guide the wire where it's was suppose to go and tape it back down with those black cloth tapes they used.

Reconnect the 2 ribbon cables. On the small one, be sure the tab is up before inserting the cable. The large cable, be sure the 2 tabs on the side is out on the right before inserting the cable.

Next, install the speakers. Long cable goes in the right socket, short goes into the left. Connect the speakers back into their connectors on the motherboard.

Now, install the power port socket and screw it down.




Lift up the motherboard where the arrow is and slide it out towards you. You will feel a connector release near where the red circle is. There's a connector for the memory card under there. Set the mother board aside.



Check and see if the infrared port has the black cover over it. If not, insert the black piece first. gain, I like to use the original so I removed it from my old PSP and installed it in the new one.

Install the motherboard by inserting the USB port though the top, then snapping it down on the lower left. Be sure to align the wifi slider with the switch on the motherboard! You'll feel a slight resistance when pushing it down because of the daughter board connector. BE SURE the UMD drive cables are on TOP of the motherboard.

You may also need to wiggle the USB port into the housing if it's a little tight.




Remove screw in red circle and lift out the piece of plastic. Then lift out the big metal plate. Then lift out the daughter board from the top and slide it out. Then lift out the small metal piece as well.

Place the small plastic as in the picture above (I usually use the original piece) and secure it with the 2 screws.



You're almost done removing the guts! Flip the PSP over.

Flip the PSP over and install the small metal piece like the picture above. Then insert the daughter board with headphone jack going in first though  the hole. You may need to wiggle it around a bit to get it inside the hole. Then place the big metal plate back in.



Next, remove the UMD door. Use your small flat head and light prey at the hinge upward, moving the hinge up a bit at a time until it pops out. At this time, the left side will get loose and you can easily remove the door.

I did this part early on and found that it's better to do it at the end... either wait, it's the same.

Putting the door back is a little tricky. Click here for the instructions.



Remove the screws in red circle and lift out the UMD drive.

Lastly, remove the UMD door spring. Just remove it by pulling the long arm towards the left.

Install the UMD door spring into the new housing. You can see how it is done here.

Place the UMD drive into the new housing and secure it with the screws. Be sure the 2 ribbon cables are though on the other side.


Now, to install, follow the guide backwards using the GREEN text.
But before you do, read below for some notes:

Installing the spring:

It is easier to hold the spring like in the picture and push it in.

Installing the Power Slider:


Put the yellow plate like this and push the power slider button though the hole to lock in the yellow pad.

Installing the large LCD metal holder plate:

When sliding in the plate, be sure that the D-Pad connector board tabs stick though the holes. Click here to go back up.

Installing the UMD door:

You'll need to do 3 things. First, make sure the spring is in the guide.


Next, Make sure the 2 hooks are hooking the metal tab on the top of the UMD metal. Pull the metal frame out with your finger then hook BOTH SIDES in while making sure the spring is still in the guide.


Then with those 2 in place, align and put the door down and press down on the lower corners and make sure they snap in place. You may need a little force.

Click here to go back to your last position.